Low-profile undercabinet switches?

 We're doing a "diet" remodel of our kitchen (countertops, hardware,
lighting, backsplash).  I'm doing fairly extensive electrical work for new
lighting and the contractor doing our tile backsplash recommended I move
the existing light switches to "low profile undercabinet switches."

I can't really find much in the way of this; the only thing I can think of
would be using the lower profile Wiremold surface mount boxes with standard
outlets and switches, but it wouldn't look too pretty, or at least no
better than wall mounting them.

I'm kind of curious if he's just looking for an easier tile job without
having to work around outlets and switches.

  Howard Beale wrote:

He probably meant the narrow ones, like used on prefab office walls, to
fit the narrow spaces.

I think you are probably right- he just doesn't wanna mess with it.
There are practical reasons to NOT put switches and outlets down there:
1. Little room, other than on the sink base.
2. It gets wet there at times- when wiping counter the rag can easily
splash it. Even if no spalashes, sink base is usually pretty humid from
condensation, wet rags, trivial drain leaks, etc.
3. Not sure about switches, but code in some areas says no outlets on
the front, due to the moisture, and so kids don't pull on cords and such.

I understand his reluctance- tiling around existing boxes is a PITA, to
get it to come out looking right. I'd tell him they are staying on the
back wall, but if you have the wall open to the studs, work with him on
layout to keep the cuts as simple as possible. Lay the backsplash out to
scale on graph paper, starting with the hard locations of the counter,
the window, the upper cabinets, and the studs. If they work best in the
middle of a stud cavity, you can adjust the location with blocking or
mounting the box on straps.  If you do it right, all the boxes should be
simple cuts, with no U-shaped tiles or skinny borders to piece in. Just
straight cuts or corners, depending on the size of the tile. Oversize
switch plates can help as well. And if you have the walls open, and 2
circuits available, I'd also look at double-ganging the outlets, at
least in key spots. Don't forget to make the new boxes stick out extra
far, to account for the tile. Otherwise you will have to use extension
rings.

--
aem sends...

 aemeijers wrote:


No, I was referring to putting switches underneath the UPPER cabinets.  In
theory they should be immune from splashing, kids, etc since they are above
the work surface and off the back wall.  For outlets, a power bar type
arrangement along the wall (top of the backsplace), flush up against the
cabinets.

I'm OK with the powerbar idea, it adds extra outlets all along the
countertop without a big 2-gang outlet (or worse, 4 gang rectangle with
switches).

After some digging on the Wiremold web site, there may be some commercial
systems which might accomplish everything -- a single raceway across the
top of the backsplash at the base of the upper cabinets which can mount
switches and outlets.

Improved aesthetics and he gets his easier tiling job.


Bah, this is why we are hiring a professional tile guy.  If it was an easy
job, I'd do it myself.

 

I've seen low profile under cabinet light fixtures, but not switches. Let us
know what you find.

--
"Tell me what I should do, Annie."
"Stay. Here. Forever." - Life On Mars

 
My kitchen has only one switch, for the undercabinet lights, on the backsplash.
The outlets are all on outlet strips mounted under the cabinets.  Works a charm,
and allows the backsplash tile mosaic to be undisturbed by the outlet plates.

Banty

Banty