Posted by Doc on July 13, 2008, 9:29 pm
The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic
http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/11/1809238/valve.jpg
Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
bleed off pressure.
Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
first? Or should this not be necessary?
Thanks for all input.
Posted by David Nebenzahl on July 13, 2008, 9:39 pm
On 7/13/2008 6:29 PM Doc spake thus:
> The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic
>
> http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/11/1809238/valve.jpg
>
> Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
> the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
> bleed off pressure.
>
> Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
> pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
> first? Or should this not be necessary?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks as if you could cut the riser (the
pipe going into the ground) below the valve, then unscrew the valve from
the ell to remove it.
To replace, you'd need to thread the top of the pipe, then use some
combination of nipples and a union to install the new valve.
Disclaimer: IANAP (I am not a plumber).
--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."
- With apologies to H. L. Mencken
Posted by mm on July 13, 2008, 9:55 pm
wrote:
>The main valve to my house needs replacing. Here's a pic
>http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/11/1809238/valve.jpg
>Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
>the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
>bleed off pressure.
>Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
>pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
>first? Or should this not be necessary?
>Thanks for all input.
IANAP, IANAQ, IANAR
Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs
replacing.
Is the problem that you can't turn off the water?
Or is the valve leaking to the outside?
Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem
first. Maybe not. Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS.
Posted by Doc on July 13, 2008, 11:30 pm
> Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs
> replacing.
> Is the problem that you can't turn off the water?
> Or is the valve leaking to the outside?
When I attempted to turn it off, it won't tighten. It feels like the
internals have corroded away.
> Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem
> first. Maybe not. Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS.
Even if that were possible, the valve is 20 years old, I think I'd
like to go to a more modern ball valve.
Posted by mm on July 14, 2008, 1:44 am
wrote:
>> Maybe you can just remove the big nut, and replace whatever needs
>> replacing.
http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/11/1809238/valve.jpg
>> Is the problem that you can't turn off the water?
>> Or is the valve leaking to the outside?
>When I attempted to turn it off, it won't tighten. It feels like the
>internals have corroded away.
OK. Or it may just need a new washer -- how long will it take to
check? -- and it feels the way it does because it now tightens beyond
its intended depth. Or maybe it needs a new stem, which they sell at
HD or at least real plumbing stores.
>> Maybe you'll have to take off the handle, the small nut, and the stem
>> first. Maybe not. Or maybe this won't work at all. IANAS.
>Even if that were possible, the valve is 20 years old, I think I'd
>like to go to a more modern ball valve.
20 years old is nothing. There are loads of such valves that work
fine that are 50 or 100 years old.
What difference does it make if the valve is modern or if it is new?
How often do you turn this valve on and off? I turn mine off maybe
once every 5 or 10 years. When I replace the water heater and once
when I went away for 2 months during the winter and drained the pipes.
But even if you used the valve every day, don't go looking for
trouble. You're likely to find it.
Do it the easy way, and if for some reason you can't replace the
rubber washer, or maybe it even needs a stem and you can't find one,
then you have plenty of time to cut out the whole valve.
Not counting turning the water off at the street, the easy repair is
as little as 20 minutes.
I expect replacing the valve is a mimimum of 2 hours for someone who
doesn't do it frequently.
Use the other 100 minutes to 8 hours for some other house project.
>
> http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/11/1809238/valve.jpg
>
> Any helpful tips I should be aware of first - other than shutting off
> the water co. valve first obviously and opening up some faucets to
> bleed off pressure.
>
> Since the one pipe is set into the stucco, I wonder if I'll need the
> pipe to be moveable and need to break the stucco around the pipe
> first? Or should this not be necessary?