Posted by Ken Hall on May 4, 2005, 6:39 pm
I've just had a new water heater installed and I have some questions.
Question 1:
I read you should replace the cheesy plastic drain cock with a ball
valve so you can get full flow when draining the heater. But, there's
some kind of safety cover over the drain cock that prevents putting
ball valves (which are larger) on them. So, if you can't do it, why
is it recommended?
Question 2:
This is a self-cleaning unit. Do you drain self cleaning units? Is
so, doesn't that mean they're not self cleaning?
Question 3:
My old unit had begun to leak. It's in the attic and I REALLY didn't
want a sudden dump, so I turned off the supply valve at the heater,
connected a garden hose, opened a couple of hot water faucets and
drained it. I left the hose connected. When the plumber arrived left
it connected saying it still needed to be drained. I asked him why
and he said, "You can't drain it without opening a water connection at
the unit." Sure enough when he cracked open one of the connections a
lot more water drained out. Why does a connection at the heater
have to be opened to get it to drain completely?
Question 4:
I would like to be able to replace the anode in a few years, but when
I've tried to remove anodes on heaters in the past I simply couldn't
get them to come loose (unscrew). Would it be better to remove it now
while it's new, and put some Teflon tape or something on it to make it
easier later?
Ken
Posted by Edwin Pawlowski on May 4, 2005, 7:30 pm
> Question 1:
> I read you should replace the cheesy plastic drain cock with a ball
> valve so you can get full flow when draining the heater. But, there's
> some kind of safety cover over the drain cock that prevents putting
> ball valves (which are larger) on them. So, if you can't do it, why
> is it recommended?
Because it is a good idea if done properly. Sounds like they don't want you
to in this case.
> Question 2:
> This is a self-cleaning unit. Do you drain self cleaning units? Is
> so, doesn't that mean they're not self cleaning?
This is probably the reason they don't want you to change the valves. I
have no idea how well this works.
> Question 3:
> Sure enough when he cracked open one of the connections a
> lot more water drained out. Why does a connection at the heater
> have to be opened to get it to drain completely?
Vacuum. Put a straw in a glass of water. Put your finger over the end and
lift it out. Same thing with the heater. If air is not allowed in, the
water cannot get out.
Posted by Dr. Hardcrab on May 4, 2005, 8:27 pm
>>
>> Question 1:
>> I read you should replace the cheesy plastic drain cock with a ball
>> valve so you can get full flow when draining the heater. But, there's
>> some kind of safety cover over the drain cock that prevents putting
>> ball valves (which are larger) on them. So, if you can't do it, why
>> is it recommended?
> Because it is a good idea if done properly. Sounds like they don't want
> you to in this case.
>>
>> Question 2:
>> This is a self-cleaning unit. Do you drain self cleaning units? Is
>> so, doesn't that mean they're not self cleaning?
> This is probably the reason they don't want you to change the valves. I
> have no idea how well this works.
>>
>> Question 3:
>> Sure enough when he cracked open one of the connections a
>> lot more water drained out. Why does a connection at the heater
>> have to be opened to get it to drain completely?
> Vacuum. Put a straw in a glass of water. Put your finger over the end
> and lift it out. Same thing with the heater. If air is not allowed in,
> the water cannot get out.
You can open the relief valve to make it drain quicker IF you are draining
one you are going to replace. I would advise you NOT to open the relief
valve on one that you are just draining (for clean-out). I have seen too
many of them that do not seat (or seal) properly once this has been done and
then you end up with an annoying drip.
Posted by Ken Hall on May 4, 2005, 9:34 pm
On Thu, 05 May 2005 00:27:58 GMT, "Dr. Hardcrab"
>> Vacuum. Put a straw in a glass of water. Put your finger over the end
>> and lift it out. Same thing with the heater. If air is not allowed in,
>> the water cannot get out.
>You can open the relief valve to make it drain quicker IF you are draining
>one you are going to replace. I would advise you NOT to open the relief
>valve on one that you are just draining (for clean-out). I have seen too
>many of them that do not seat (or seal) properly once this has been done and
>then you end up with an annoying drip.
I agree with both statements, but I ask you the same question -- why
doesn't opening hot water faucets also work?
Ken
Posted by Dr. Hardcrab on May 4, 2005, 10:36 pm
> On Thu, 05 May 2005 00:27:58 GMT, "Dr. Hardcrab"
>>> Vacuum. Put a straw in a glass of water. Put your finger over the end
>>> and lift it out. Same thing with the heater. If air is not allowed in,
>>> the water cannot get out.
>>
>>You can open the relief valve to make it drain quicker IF you are draining
>>one you are going to replace. I would advise you NOT to open the relief
>>valve on one that you are just draining (for clean-out). I have seen too
>>many of them that do not seat (or seal) properly once this has been done
>>and
>>then you end up with an annoying drip.
> I agree with both statements, but I ask you the same question -- why
> doesn't opening hot water faucets also work?
That'll work too....
> I read you should replace the cheesy plastic drain cock with a ball
> valve so you can get full flow when draining the heater. But, there's
> some kind of safety cover over the drain cock that prevents putting
> ball valves (which are larger) on them. So, if you can't do it, why
> is it recommended?