Posted by jeff on January 14, 2010, 11:02 am
I had need for some mylar, so I bought a 100' roll. This will give me
enough left over to make some storm windows. I'm thinking of ripping
some 3/8" thick or so pine frames and gluing the mylar on the sheet by
setting the frame on the stretched mylar. One sheet on each side, it's
about 7 cents a square foot for 1 mil. Very transparent. These would be
inside the house storm windows. Mylar is very tough, but needs a UV barrier.
What I wonder is what to do about possible moisture between the mylar
panes. Should I leave an air gap, seal it up, or add some dessiccant.
Ideas?
Jeff
Posted by Rod Speed on January 14, 2010, 12:43 pm
jeff wrote:
> I had need for some mylar, so I bought a 100' roll. This will give me
> enough left over to make some storm windows. I'm thinking of ripping
> some 3/8" thick or so pine frames and gluing the mylar on the sheet by
> setting the frame on the stretched mylar. One sheet on each side, it's
> about 7 cents a square foot for 1 mil. Very transparent. These would
> be inside the house storm windows. Mylar is very tough, but needs a
> UV barrier.
> What I wonder is what to do about possible moisture between the
> mylar panes. Should I leave an air gap, seal it up, or add some dessiccant.
Cant see dessicant working, you're unlikely to have a good enough seal for that
to work for long.
> Ideas?
Posted by Vandy Terre on April 20, 2010, 8:09 am
> I had need for some mylar, so I bought a 100' roll. This will give me
>enough left over to make some storm windows. I'm thinking of ripping
>some 3/8" thick or so pine frames and gluing the mylar on the sheet by
>setting the frame on the stretched mylar. One sheet on each side, it's
>about 7 cents a square foot for 1 mil. Very transparent. These would be
>inside the house storm windows. Mylar is very tough, but needs a UV barrier.
I don't know how to create the needed UV barrier.
> What I wonder is what to do about possible moisture between the mylar
>panes. Should I leave an air gap, seal it up, or add some dessiccant.
> Ideas?
I recommend sealing all the wood before installing, wood is porous. A few
grains of rice in the bottom of the storm window might absorb the captured
moisture.
> enough left over to make some storm windows. I'm thinking of ripping
> some 3/8" thick or so pine frames and gluing the mylar on the sheet by
> setting the frame on the stretched mylar. One sheet on each side, it's
> about 7 cents a square foot for 1 mil. Very transparent. These would
> be inside the house storm windows. Mylar is very tough, but needs a
> UV barrier.
> What I wonder is what to do about possible moisture between the
> mylar panes. Should I leave an air gap, seal it up, or add some dessiccant.